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Frommer's Guide
FEATURES AND EVENTS
Riding High in the Rockies
Striking Gold at Copper Mountain
Riding High in the Rockies
by Rachel Berg
Lead Writer

Car Camping
To spend some quality time in the Great Outdoors, you might consider car camping. Several of Rocky Mountain National Park's campgrounds are car-friendly, and in most cases, you can pitch your tent just steps away from the car's bumper.

For convenience, fire pits, bear lockers, and picnic benches are usually already built into the site, and toilets and water are often only steps away. Be advised that during the summer season, the campgrounds fill up fast, and it is wise to arrive early or have a reservation beforehand--call (970) 586-1206 or (800) 365-CAMP. All campgrounds cost $16 per vehicle per night during the summer season. Check-out time is noon. (Please note that during the off-season, water is shut off and prices drop to $10 per vehicle.)

The park's five drive-in campgrounds are:

Aspenglen: Open from mid-May to late September; first-come first-served basis; located five miles west of Estes Park just inside the Fall River Entrance.
Glacier Basin: Open from June to Labor Day; reservations required; located seven miles west of Beaver Meadows Visitor Center off Bear Lake Road.
Longs Peak: Open year-round; first-come first-served basis; located near the trailhead to Longs Peak.
Moraine Park: Open year-round; reservations required from Memorial Day to Labor Day; located 2½ miles from Beaver Meadows Visitor Center off of Bear Lake Road.
Timber Creek: Open year-round; first-come first-served basis; no potable water until mid-June; located on high ground overlooking the Kawuneeche Valley and the Colorado River.


Denver to Boulder
The 26-mile, 40-minute drive from Denver to Boulder on U.S. 36 leads to the flatirons of the Rocky Mountains, where this university town is based. Boulder boasts more days of sunshine per year than San Diego. The city has a definite outdoorsy bent, as evidenced by its 56 parks, 150 miles of hiking and biking trails, and 25,000 acres of open space. Boulder Creek Path, for example, is a much-loved locale for biking, walking, and inline skating in a serene setting. The city is also a great launching point for river-rafting adventures.

All the inspiring scenery makes Boulder a haven for artists, as the many galleries, theaters, and museums testify. Near downtown, the pedestrian-only Pearl Street Mall consists of four blocks of shopping and sidewalk cafés. The city has a bustling bar and pub scene, and during the summer season outdoor music and theater occur on a regular basis. Guests can witness the crafting of local microbrews at Rockies Brewing Company, or tour the fragrant Celestial Seasonings factory to see the tea-making process.

Boulder to Estes Park
From Boulder, it is 36 miles more on U.S. 36 to Estes Park (elevation: 7,522 feet), but leave about an hour for the drive to the resort-like eastern gateway to the Rockies. The pull-off at the entrance to the valley offers a panoramic view and provides the opportunity to become acquainted with the much-loved Steller's Jay, a strikingly blue bird that calls the mountains home. Even in summer, snow still caps the surrounding peaks, but valley days are warm, the air is clean, and nights are starry.

The town of Estes Park is home to the landmark Stanley Hotel, named for Freelan Stanley, who invented the Stanley Steamer auto in 1899. For a window into the lives of early town settlers, head to the Estes Park Historical Museum. Another point of interest is the Enos Mills Cabin and Gallery, former home of the conservationist whose efforts, in large part, protected the surrounding parkland. Items ranging from hand-blown glass to Native American crafts are sold in gift shops and galleries. Classical music fills the summer night air as part of the Estes Park Music Festival. Before leaving town, make sure you gas up and check all your fluid levels. There are no gas stations in the national park.

Trail Ridge Road to Grand Lake (Rocky Mountain National Park)
Trail Ridge Road cuts through the center of Rocky Mountain National Park and is the highest continuous paved highway in the U.S. The cost to enter the park is $15 per vehicle, which is good for seven days. Be sure to ask for a park map, which will explain some of the major vista points. Eight miles of Trail Ridge Road are above 11,000 feet in elevation. Due to heavy snows, the road closes around mid-September and does not reopen until around Memorial Day. Although it is only 48 miles from Estes Park to Grand Lake, it is wise to allot between two and three hours to complete the trek with time for stopping.

Once within the park's boundaries, a rolled-down window reveals that summer here is an olfactory parade of blooming wildflowers, new-growth pines, and fresh rains. Be on the alert for park wildlife, from peregrine falcons and woodpeckers to bighorn sheep and mule deer. The road wiggles and winds its way past thick forests of lodgepole pines and then stretches above the treeline past mosses and lichens to the park's most ancient rocks.

Overlooks (often windy) reveal such an abundance of mountains, valleys, and lakes that it's sometimes hard to believe that it is possible to pack so much into one scene. At about the mid-way point, stop at the Alpine Visitor Center. Unfortunately, the alpine tundra exhibits won't be available for viewing this summer due to construction, but you can use the facilities and talk to a park ranger.

Four miles to the west of the Visitor Center is the Continental Divide, the point from which a drop of rain on one side travels east towards the Atlantic, and on the other side travels west toward the Pacific. The west side of the park is wetter than the east, resulting in thicker forests and softer mountain slopes. From here to Grand Lake, the road heads southward, and out of the park.

At the park's western entrance, the small, idyllic town of Grand Lake is host to tons of camping and hiking, and gets its name from the lake on which it sits, the largest natural lake in Colorado. Appropriately, fishing and water sports prevail. The town also has an old-fashioned boardwalk, a place to enjoy an ice cream cone while window-shopping. Another place to view history is at the Kauffman House Museum, where most of the original furniture remains from the late 1800s when it operated as a guest lodge.

Grand Lake to Winter Park via Granby
Just 16 miles south of Grand Lake on U.S. 34, Granby has a real western feel with rodeos, cowboys, dude ranches, and plenty of horses. The three national forests, four lakes, and two parks that surround it make the town a picturesque place to grab some grub and have a picnic. For fishing, head to the Budget Tackle shop, and for those with an equestrian inclination, saddle up at Sombrero Ranch.

Winter Park lies 20 miles to Granby's south (take U.S. 40 south from Granby). As the name suggests, it is a sanctuary for skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, and other winter sports. During summer, however, the area is equally entertaining, and there are fewer crowds. If you didn't catch a fish in Granby, there's another chance to reel in the big one at the Three Lakes District. Another option is golf at Pole Creek Golf Club. Get lost in the Amaze'n Winter Park human maze or delve into more of the area's pioneer past at Cozens Ranch House museum. To chill out, there is a 1½-mile alpine slide, which is free to the public. Starting in mid-July, on Saturday nights, the Stampede Rodeos in nearby Fraser prove that echoes of the former Wild West haven't died yet.

Winter Park to Denver via Golden
From Winter Park, head southeast about 60 miles on U.S. 40 (which follows Interstate 70 part of the way). On the early part of this segment, be alert for steep grades and switchbacks as you traverse Berthoud Pass. Closer to Denver, near the town of Idaho Springs, there is the chance to see what all the gold-digging clamor of yesteryear was about at the Argo Mill, where you can try your hand at prospecting and pan for any leftover scraps of gold and gemstones. To see a mine still in operation, the Phoenix Gold Mine is also worth checking out.

At the end of your journey, as you head towards Golden, a hush might fill the car. "Taste the Rockies," a voice cajoles out of the silence. Is that your inner mountain child calling? No, it's just an ad for the Coors Brewing Company on the radio. While in Golden, take a tour and sample the brew if you choose, but make sure the designated driver abstains.

Golden was Colorado's territorial capital in 1862, before it moved to Denver. Peruse the Golden Pioneer Museum and pay homage to one of the great legends of the West at Buffalo Bill's grave and museum. The Colorado Railroad museum is another place to soak up area history before hitting the road again for the 15 miles back to Denver. Happy trails!•

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